Empordà off-season: Explore the Most Authentic Seaside Towns
The Empordà is one of Catalonia's most picturesque regions. Seaside white-washed towns and the typical fishing houses overlooking the Mediterranean are some renowned symbols of identity. The Empordà is traditionally home to artists, artisans, and fishermen.
Wandering through the Empordà villages and their cobblestone streets lined with colorful bougainvillea, along with exploring unique beaches and small bays, allows travelers to experience the Mediterranean lifestyle in its purest form.
The Empordà is part of the province of Girona, located in the northeast corner of Catalonia. It encompasses the Pyrenees, the Costa Brava, and the volcanic region of La Garrotxa. Alt Empordà and Baix Empordà are the two primary areas that form the Empordà.
The natural landscape in the Empordà region is unique and diverse. The sea and stunning flat coastlines contrast with the rugged mountain scenery. Harmonious and wild views are seamlessly integrated into the land, sculpted by the northern Tramuntana winds.
The Empordà has a rich cultural and historical heritage. Prestigious artists lived and developed their artistic careers in several towns in the area, and their artworks now represent a remarkable legacy for the Empordà.
The Empordà, recognized as one of the top destinations to taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, boasts a vibrant gastronomic and winemaking scene that has become a cultural highlight for the region.
WHEN TO VISIT THE EMPORDÀ
With a wide range of towns both on the coast and inland, the Empordà is one of Catalonia's most exceptional regions. Traveling off-season is the best way to enjoy the area in its most natural state, with less pressure from tourism. Spring and autumn are ideal seasons to explore the Empordà at a relaxed pace and immerse yourself in a land with all its soul. Even in winter, touring the Empordà becomes both fascinating and mystical.
1. CADAQUÉS - ALT EMPORDÀ
Cadaqués is one of the most charming coastal villages in the Costa Brava, located right on the Cap de Creus Peninsula, surrounded by hills in the northern part of the Alt Empordà.
With its impressive coastline sights alongside the typical white-walled houses and the cobblestone paths that line the hill down to the beach and harbor, Cadaqués is a splendid location to spend a relaxing time exploring its cultural richness and savoring the local gastronomy.
The old town is worth a stroll to soak in the Mediterranean atmosphere, while paying attention to the small details. The winding streets filled with greenery and hanging bougainvillea, the traditional white houses along the way, and facades with colorful doors are pure poetry for the senses.
One of the most beautiful viewpoints is right in the old town, in front of Santa Maria's church, the highest point in the historic center. Get inspired by the live music of the artists who perform in this beautiful spot, and by the views overlooking Platja Port d'Alguer. Even though Cadaqués is a relatively small town, there are numerous beaches and small coves where visitors can swim or enjoy the sun while reading a book. Some beaches in the central part of the town are Platja Gran, Platja des Poal, Platja des Llané Gran, Platja Ses Oliveres, and Platja des Sortell.
Cadaqués has inherited a strong fishing tradition from former times. Although less common nowadays, younger generations of fishers working on their boats are part of daily life.
The best way to end a day in Cadaqués is to enjoy the breathtaking views of the old town and harbor at sunset from the viewpoint of Pujada des Pianc. From there, every traveler should pause for a moment to appreciate the beauty of the Mediterranean landscape with its stunning panoramic views and the sound of the sea breeze.
Cadaqués is also known for being the residence of renowned creatives. Salvador Dalí spent most of his life in his home in Portlligat, a tiny village within a 20-minute walk from Cadaqués. Today, the house where the famous artist lived from 1930 to 1982 is the Salvador Dalí House Museum, where some of his personal belongings and artwork are exhibited.
From Portlligat, heading north, visitors can explore the Cap de Creus area and its remarkable views. It lies on the easternmost side of the Iberian Peninsula with its outstanding lighthouse, Far de Cap de Creus. There are also small coves to relish in quality time and unwind in an unrivaled environment. Cala Jugadora, Cala Culip, Cala Culleró, or Cova de l'Infern (Cove of Hell) are some of the most unspoiled, and it is preferable to access them on foot.
A short and easy hike of about an hour from Cadaqués to the Far de Cala Nans lighthouse, overlooking the bay, will please travelers seeking some of the most impressive Mediterranean scenes.
2. SANT MARTÍ D'EMPÚRIES - ALT EMPORDÀ
Sant Martí d'Empúries is a lesser-known medieval town in the Alt Empordà area that is exceptionally appealing. With only a few cobblestone streets, stone houses, a central square, and a church, Sant Martí d'Empúries is worth exploring as it holds a crucial historical significance for the Empordà region. Sant Martí d'Empúries, which belongs to the municipality of l’Escala, was declared a cultural asset of national importance.
An afternoon walk through its narrow streets will end with the enchanting scenery of its calm beaches at sunset. From Sant Martí d'Empúries, the recommendation is to stroll along the route of Passeig d'Empúries towards l'Escala town through the footpath of Camí de Ronda and head to the seafront Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries. This route has access to the unique beaches of Les Muscleres and Portitxol. It’s only a 20-minute hike, worth the experience.
The lively main square in Sant Martí d'Empúries is an ideal place to taste the regional cuisine. There are several restaurants where one can savor the typical Catalan dishes. The beautiful views of the church and the tranquil live music in the square will make for an exceptional end of the day in Sant Martí d'Empúries.
3. CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL - BAIX EMPORDÀ
The natural beauty of Calella de Palafrugell will make any visitor travel back in time through the senses to an authentic fishing village that has preserved all its original charm. Discover this seaside gem, part of the Palafrugell municipality, heading south to the Baix Empordà region.
The seafront of Calella de Palafrugell is one of the most spectacular in the Empordà area. Depicted and pictured by many painters and photographers countless times throughout history, this town features a magnificent setting that attracts curious sightseers from near and far.
One of the highlights of Calella de Palafrugell is its historic fishing port, Port Bo, which has been declared a cultural asset of national importance. This picturesque quarter maintains its traditional architecture, with historical buildings and white-vaulted porches. These spaces, formerly used for setting nets and auctioning fish, are now home to local restaurants.
Wooden boats, stranded on the sand at the beach of Platja del Port Bo, form a unique maritime landscape. The views from this spot are magical at dusk. Ending the day in Calella de Palafrugell while listening to the sound of the waves and the seagulls hovering over the seashore will shape an unforgettable travel experience.
There are quite a few beaches (platja in Catalan) around the center of the village. Get lost in the crystal-clear waters of Platja del Port de Malaespina, Platja de Port Pelegrí, Platja d'en Calau, Platja dels Canyissos, or Platja del Canadell.
4. LLAFRANC & SANT SEBASTIÀ LIGTHOUSE - BAIX EMPORDÀ
Only a few minutes from Calella de Palafrugell, there is a beautiful, tiny village called Llafranc, part of the municipality of Palafrugell. Llafranc is quite renowned, although it lives under the shadow of the more popular neighboring town, Calella de Palafrugell.
Stroll around the promenade Passeig de Cipsela, with the traditional fisher's houses arranged in front of the sea. These white-washed homes showcase a touch of color in their façades with tiles in different shades of blue, which provides a more prominent maritime style to the seafront. Today, these historical houses share the space with a few local restaurants on the promenade. It is always a good idea to take a break and have a drink or a meal with the sumptuous views of the sea and the quaint beach of the village, Platja de Llafranc.
In the northern area of the village, the panoramic sight of Llafranc Bay is unmissable from the viewpoint of Mirador del Cap de Sant Sebastià, at around 168 meters above sea level. One of the essentials in Llafranc is watching a sunset from this particular spot.
Following the road, slightly upward from this point, discover a 19th-century lighthouse still operational. It is called Far de Sant Sebastià and is the most powerful lighthouse on the Catalan coastline. Indulge in a moment of calm, observing all the richness of the land from this place that, at night, is even more impressive due to the lighthouse lighting.
For history enthusiasts, alongside Sant Sebastià lighthouse, there is the historical Iberian settlement of Sant Sebastià de la Guarda. It is an archeological site from the 6th-1st century B.C., discovered around 1960, and a 15th-century watchtower. Sant Sebastià hermitage, built in baroque style, is part of the same structure and dates back to the 18th century.
This is the highest point in the town of Llafranc, accessible by a short and pleasant walk or by car.
5. TAMARIU - BAIX EMPORDÀ
Within the municipality of Palafrugell, Tamariu is an old fishing village close to Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell. The bay of Tamariu is one of the most impressive and lively places in the town.
During the warmer months of the year, sea lovers gather around in the littoral of Tamariu for a refreshing swim in the small beaches and coves along its coast before the sun sets. Those who prefer to practice water sports like kayaking, paddle surfing, or sailing, among others, haunt Tamariu all year long. Its singular charm knows no seasons, although it is the ideal location for slow travelers to enjoy the off-season.
Platja Gran is the central beach in Tamariu. Staring at its captivating Mediterranean landscape from the shore, with coarse-grained sand and a deep blue water backdrop, will make travelers feel a sense of paradise. The nearby cove, Cala d'Aigua Dolça, boasts a breathtaking panoramic view of the local natural scenery. Those who dare a 30-minute hike north from Tamariu will be rewarded with the pristine waters and stunning views of Cala d'Aigua Xelida.
Cala Pedrosa is another of the area's most authentic coves. Its natural beauty won't pass unnoticed by travelers passionate about nature. Located the furthest away from the center of Tamariu, Cala Pedrosa is only accessible on foot or by boat.
HOW TO GET AROUND THE TOWNS IN THE EMPORDÀ
Every seaside town in the Empordà is reachable on foot, by car, or by small boat. The recommendation is to enjoy day excursions along Camí de Ronda to get the most out of the experience while witnessing all the magnificent villages and landscapes in the surroundings in the most environmentally friendly way possible. Camí de Ronda (GR-92) is a popular Mediterranean footpath that runs along the Catalan coast from north to south. The different stages of the route connect most of the towns, beaches, and coves in the Costa Brava and Empordà.
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